🔗 Share this article

When curating a ranking of London’s finest dining spots, one might foresee familiar Michelin-starred venues. However, situated near the top among these food heavyweights is a modest salonu located in a far-flung part of northern London.

A Unexpected Honour

This little Turkish restaurant, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the 4th top restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent gastronomic guide. This honour has left the owners utterly surprised.

“I’m totally surprised,” remarks the proprietor, alluding to his parents’ relentless work that culminated in their small shop earning such a high spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

The compact space, which was a simple cafe before its conversion into a buzzing destination, has kept much of its original character. It fits just over 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking show, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate space,” comments the owner.

A Namesake Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it is focused on the food, and this restaurant more than excels. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a succulent texture.

It is then tossed into a large pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. Once the savoury mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to take in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is wrapped tightly inside.

It is typically consumed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a strong burst of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A respected food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a deeper, toastier and more balanced flavour.

Rising Above the Titans

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the top of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant full for less than £25, similar experiences at top-tier establishments can cost significantly more than that amount.

A Philosophy of Hospitality

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I do not subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is hospitality, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is shared by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he was in a role of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London come to this spot as a masterclass, to show them the traps of overthinking, and to reveal what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Story of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not work at elite restaurants. “I am very pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum would be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a life outside work but her friends would visit to help her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

A Accomplishment for the Community

The restaurant’s success is likely to echo outside its own walls. “In my opinion a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the broader meaning of this gastronomic honour.